The Wine of Kings - The King of Wines

Royal Tokaji cellars

IFirst recorded in 1252, the vineyards of Tokaj are part of Hungary’s identity.  Their wines have been so treasured that Louis XIV called them the “Wine of Kings and King of Wines.”  The Club is honoured that Master of Wine, Christopher Donaldson, will be our guest tutor to not only show the exquisite sweet wines but the dry styles produced.

Tomasso Gallery

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To make the evening a summer spectacular, our venue is the Tomasso Gallery at Marquis House, 67 Jermyn Street SW1Y 6NY.  Tomasso is the leading dealer in European sculpture (particularly Renaissance bronzes) and also noted for master paintings and ancient art.  It supports British and international museums through sponsorship and loans including the Royal Academy, Frick Collection and Metropolitan in New York, Prague Castle and Art Institute of Chicago.

Tokaj has always had a powerful but mysterious reputation.  As Michael Broadbent MW said in his Great Vintage Wine Book: “Perhaps the most remote and strange of all the great classic wines, Tokaj comes from …. little more than a perfectly formed vine-clad hill about 30 miles from the Russian borders – surely conceived by the romantic imagination of some Transylvanian god.”

Some 9 million years ago extinct volcanoes created such diverse rocks that up to 35 different soil layers can be found in a single Tokaj plot.  The famous aszú was first mentioned in 1571 and praised by Mozart and Goethe.  Chris will explain how the different wines from 5,700 hectares of land are created.  Up to six vine varieties are permitted, led by Furmint and Hárslevelü.  A surprise may be the high quality, full-bodied dry wines that reflect the distinctive taste of the volcanic land of north-east Hungary.

In recent years the wines that excited the czars, monarchs and popes have enjoyed a renaissance.  The first foreign private producer in modern times is the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, whose wines will be shown.  Established in 1990 – before privatisation became general in the region – over 60 local growers joined the Western entrepreneurs who included Hugh Johnson.  The dessert wines age in barrels seen by flickering light, housed in 13^th century cellars which run for 2km.

Vineyards of Royal Tokaji

Four of our eight wines are dry, starting with Vineyard Selection Furmint 2021, selected from the finest classed growth sites around the village of Mád.  It has a charming floral aroma with hints of apple and gooseberry and a structured, medium-bodied style.  It was fermented in Zemplén oak sourced from sustainable forests in northern Hungary and matured for nine months in 300 and 500 litre barrels, one-fifth of which were new.

Our second wine – Mézes Mály Furmint 2022 – comes from one of two vineyards classified as a Great First Growth.  Its volcanic bedrock is overlaid with deep loess soil, imparting finesse and a floral character to the wines.  Royal Tokaji owns 11 of its 19 hectares.  Expect a wine with hints of white peach and apricot fruits, balanced by refreshing crisp acidity.  Only 1,000 bottles were produced..

Furmint grapes

Hungary has 93 grape varieties of at least 10ha each.  Tokaji is the key region for two:-Furmint (known as Mosler in Austria) yields wines of high acidity which gives it long ageing potential, high sugar and rich flavours.  By comparison, Hárslevelü - which means “linden leaf” in Hungarian - is noticeably aromatic and late ripening; the two vines combine together very successfully in the glass!

Mád village

At the heart of the Mád basin lies the crescent moon-shaped single vineyard of rich dark clay which is the source of our third wine: Betsek Hárslevelü 2021.  This elegant dry wine has a rich nose with peach and spice notes and a palate of fresh fruit with a long mineral finish. The 2021 harvest was completed in October. The wine was fermented in new Zemplén oak barrels and also matured in 300 litre oak barrels for eight months..

Barrels of Royal Tokaji

To show some age for a dry Great First Growth, we have secured Mézes Mály Szamorodni Furmint 2016 made from healthy and botrytised grapes with a potential alcohol of 15.5%.  After pressing and fermentation, the wine was aged for over five years in used Zemplén barrels.  Expect aromas of almond and dried fruits with a dry palate and a fresh, balanced, savoury finish.

The unusual Tokaji Fordítás Furmint 2016 opens our sweet range.  Fordítás means pressed aszú paste re-macerated in fermenting must.  Royal Tokaji’s winemaker selected the paste of six puttonyos aszú and, after re-pressing and finishing fermentation, the wine was placed in a 500 litre Hungarian oak cask for over two years. The result is a beautiful bright gold hue, a distinct dried red fruit and botrytis nose, and a palate of honey and nuts with lively acidity. Great with both spicy meats and blue cheese!

Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos “Blue Label” 2018 used fine quality Aszú berries that had balance and a delicate botrytis character; they were macerated for two days and subsequently pressed, fermented and placed in 300 and 500 litre Hungarian oak for two years.  The barrels lie in deep underground cellars.  For comparison the 6 puttonyos “Gold Label” 2017 will follow, showing orange peel and spice aromas with a citrus and peach palate.  Whilst sweet (189g/l), it has vibrant acidity. Great with hard cheeses and fruit desserts.

Botryised grapes

Finally the legendary Nyulászó Aszú 6 puttonyos 2018 will be opened.  The name means “a good place to catch hares”; it is a much sought after First Growth vineyard on the outskirts of Mád village.  Royal Tokaji owns 15ha planted with Furmint, , Hárslevelü and Kabar (a crossing of Hárslevelü and Bouvier) vines with an average age of a quarter century.  The wine is aged for two years with 40% new oak.

The wine exudes a lively tropical fruit and vanilla nose with ripe melon, greengage plums and apricot on the palate balanced with acidity. The finish is long and incredibly complex.

Chris Donaldson qualified as a Master of Wine in 1991.  He fell in love with wine while studying hotel management and gastronomy.  He has worked as a buyer for Harrods, a retailer at Roberson and as CEO for Cockburn & Campbell before joining Royal Tokaji.

Book Offer

The Club has secured six special wine books for members - all at discount prices.  The books available are listed on the Book Offer page available via this link:  Book Offer.  When ordering, please remember to advise which tasting you would like to collect at - 22^nd June or 21^st July.

Doors open at 6.30pm; please do NOT arrive earlier (as the Committee needs time to set up).  If you arrive before, there are many wine bars/coffee shops in the vicinity.  The tasting ends at 8.30pm

Dress code: Jacket and tie for men; please advise your guests.

For admission, please first check availability (info below), NOT please to the Membership Secretary.  Once confirmed and paid, either print off the numbered ticket or have it available on a mobile telephone for entry.

Seating is very limited; if specifically required, please request it.

EVENT SUMMARY

Date:      Tuesday 21^st July 2026

Time:      6:30pm

Venue:    Tomasso Gallery,  Marquis House,  67 Jermyn Street,   SW1Y 6NY

Dress:     Jacket and tie for gentlemen

TASTING COSTS

Tasting Application

Please check availability first by emailing tastings@redherringwineclub.co.uk

HOW TO BOOK

Essential first step: Please check availability by either

• Via the on-line form above  (preferred method)

​           or

• E-mail your tasting application to tastings@redherringwineclub.co.uk

Please do not reply to the Membership Secretary or pay until confirmation of a place is received.

Second stage: Once confirmation has been received, please pay online to The Red Herring Wine Club at Barclays Bank plc:

The payment reference to use is:

Enquiries can be made by telephone on 020 8947 5082 or by e-mail to tastings@redherringwineclub.co.uk  (NB: NOT please to membership@redherringwineclub.co.uk)

Your booking is secure once payment has been received at which point your numbered ticket will be issued as confirmation.

Unfortunately the Club is only able to reimburse if advised at least seven days before an event.  If you are likely to be late, please ring or text 07754 108662.

Tastings take place approximately monthly and can usually be booked the day after a tasting has taken place.  Payments outside this schedule are discouraged and do not guarantee a place.

Please remember to notify any home or email address changes by emailing details to membership@redherringwineclub.co.uk.

Diary Dates: